Dogfooding a new theme

I am do­ing a sec­ond theme for Niko­la, and what bet­ter way to test it than mi­grat­ing this site to it!

In the pro­cess, I stopped us­ing cus­tom tem­plates here, or­ga­nized how a theme is done, how trans­la­tions work, and oth­er stuff.

Com­ments about bro­ken / un­trans­lat­ed / miss­ing stuff are much ap­pre­ci­at­ed!